Get Glowing With These Non-Toxic and Non-Irritating Chemical Exfoliators

Non-toxic chemical exfoliators have risen in popularity as consumers increasingly seek gentler and safer alternatives for their skincare routines.

These ingredients work by gently breaking down the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to be washed away, revealing smoother, brighter skin without the harsh effects that can come from physical exfoliation or more aggressive chemical ingredients.

In this blog we will explore:

• the difference between chemical, physical and enzymatic exfoliators

• toxic and non-toxic exfoliating active ingredients

• active ingredients vs inactive ingredients

• and provide my favorite product recommendations.

If you don't know me, my name is Sophia and I help you find non-toxic home, beauty and personal care products. You can also find me on TikTok, Instagram and Pinterest. Make sure to subscribe to this blog to get tips on non-toxic living delivered straight to your inbox 4x / week!

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Chemical vs. Physical vs Enzymatic Exfoliators: What Sets Them Apart?

Chemical and physical exfoliators are both designed to remove dead skin cells, but they do so in very different ways.

Physical Exfoliators: Physical exfoliators, also known as mechanical exfoliators, use a manual scrubbing action to physically remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin.

This category includes products like face scrubs with granules (such as sugar, salt, or micro-beads), brushes, and exfoliating gloves. The abrasive nature of these products can instantly smooth and refine the skin's texture.

However, they can also be too harsh for sensitive skin or lead to micro-tears in the skin if used improperly or too frequently.

Chemical Exfoliators: Chemical exfoliators work on a deeper level, relying on active ingredients to dissolve and loosen the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to be washed away without physical scrubbing.

These exfoliators often contain acids such as alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic and lactic acid, or beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid.

Enzymatic exfoliants utilize natural enzymes to break down the proteins in dead skin cells, effectively digesting the dead skin to reveal smoother, fresher skin underneath.

They are considered gentler than chemical and physical exfoliants and are often recommended for sensitive skin. Common sources include papain (enzyme from papaya), bromelain (an enzyme from pineapple) and pumpkin enzyme.

Chemical and enzymatic exfoliation tends to be more uniform than physical exfoliation and can address a range of skin concerns, including acne, fine lines, and uneven skin tone. Since they don't require physical rubbing, chemical and enzymatic exfoliators are generally considered suitable for most skin types, including sensitive skin, provided the correct product and concentration are chosen.

Understanding Active vs. Inactive Ingredients In Exfoliators

Understanding the distinction between active and inactive ingredients can significantly influence the effectiveness and suitability of these products for your skin.

Active Ingredients in Exfoliators

The active ingredients in exfoliators are those that directly contribute to the exfoliation process. In chemical exfoliators, these include acids such as alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs), like glycolic and lactic acid, which work by dissolving the glue-like substances holding dead skin cells together on the surface of the skin.

Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs), such as salicylic acid, penetrate deeper into the pores to remove dead skin cells and excess sebum. The concentration of these active ingredients is crucial; it determines the product's strength and efficacy. For physical exfoliators, the active components are the physical abrasive particles, such as jojoba beads or ground nut shells, which mechanically remove dead skin cells through scrubbing action.

Inactive Ingredients in Exfoliators Inactive ingredients in exfoliators, while not contributing directly to the removal of dead skin cells, play essential supporting roles. They can include binding agents, preservatives, textures enhancers, and hydrating agents.

These ingredients ensure the product maintains its consistency, has a pleasant texture, remains stable over time, and helps to soothe and hydrate the skin during the exfoliation process. For example, a chemical exfoliator might contain aloe vera or glycerin as inactive ingredients to help mitigate potential irritation caused by the acids and support the skin's moisture barrier.

Similarly, in physical exfoliators, emollients or oils may be added to provide a smoother glide over the skin, reducing the risk of micro-tears or damage.

Understanding the differences between active and inactive ingredients in exfoliators is key to selecting the right product.

Active ingredients determine the type and intensity of exfoliation, while inactive ingredients can enhance the product's sensory attributes and skin compatibility.

This knowledge allows you to make informed decisions, choosing exfoliators that not only effectively promote cell turnover and reveal fresher, brighter skin but also respect and nourish the skin's health overall.

Navigating Between Toxic and Non-Toxic Exfoliators

When looking for. a non-toxic and non-irritating exfoliator, you will want to start with the chemical exfoliators. You also want to always ensure that both the active ingredients and the inactive ingredients are safe and non-harmful.

You want to avoid any endocrine disruptors, carcinogens, fragrances and irritating chemicals in your skincare products. On average, women are exposed to 100-500 chemicals per day from an average of 12 personal care products. You want to do your best in avoiding harmful ingredients from as many products as you can to promote and protect your overall health and wellness.

Toxic exfoliators often rely on these active ingredients:

there are exfoliating ingredients that have raised concerns due to their potential health risks or environmental impact. It's important to differentiate between ingredients that might be harmful in large quantities or under certain conditions (e.g., if ingested or used inappropriately) and those that can cause skin irritation or sensitization in some individuals.

Here are some exfoliating ingredients that have been flagged for various reasons:

Microbeads

• Microbeads were widely used in personal care products as a physical exfoliant but have been banned in many countries due to their environmental impact. Made from polyethylene or other plastics, these tiny particles do not degrade and contribute significantly to marine pollution, harming aquatic life.

Certain Chemical Exfoliants

High Concentrations of AHAs/BHAs: While alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) are effective exfoliants, very high concentrations can cause skin irritation, chemical burns, or increased sensitivity to the sun. Misuse or overuse can result in adverse skin reactions. Never expose skin to the sun when using these ingredients.

Nonetheless, products incorporating these ingredients can remain non-toxic; their safety hinges on the concentration in the product.

• Salicylic Acid: Salicylic acid is a suspected endocrine disruptor and can have a negative environmental impact. This BHA has some concern about its aquatic toxicity, affecting organisms in rivers and lakes if present in high concentrations.

• Glycolic Acid: Always avoid the eye area as this can be an eye irritant. It has also been classified as a skin irritant, so use in moderation.

• Lactic Acid: In high concentrations, lactic acid can cause skin irritation, redness, and sensitivity, especially in individuals with sensitive skin or those who are new to using acid-based exfoliants. Overuse can compromise the skin's barrier function, leading to increased susceptibility to environmental damage and dehydration. It's also important to note that while lactic acid can enhance skin renewal and appearance, it can increase photosensitivity, making the skin more vulnerable to UV damage.

• Malic Acid: In high concentrations, malic acid can lead to skin irritation, including redness, burning, or peeling, particularly in those with sensitive or compromised skin barriers. Its exfoliating action, while beneficial for removing dead skin cells and promoting a healthy complexion, needs to be moderated to prevent disrupting the skin’s natural protective barrier.

Formaldehyde-Releasing Preservatives: Some skincare products, including exfoliants, may contain preservatives that release small amounts of formaldehyde, a known carcinogen. Examples include quaternium-15, DMDM hydantoin, and imidazolidinyl urea. The concern is more significant with long-term exposure.

Scrub Ingredients

Aluminum Oxide Crystals: Used in professional microdermabrasion treatments and some at-home exfoliating products, there are concerns about inhalation of the fine particles, though this is more of an issue for professionals performing the treatments than for consumers.

Our favorite active ingredients for non-toxic and non-irritating exfoliation are:

These are my favorite active ingredients when looking for an exfoliating skincare product.

Remember, some of these may contain amounts of AHAs and BHAs, but their concentration has been deemed safe. Always double check full skincare ingredient lists to ensure they contain both active and inactive ingredients that you prefer. Always wear sun protection when using a product that contains AHAs and BHAs.

Mandelic Acid

Derivatives: Mandelic acid is an AHA derived from bitter almonds. Its derivatives include mandelic acid amide and ethyl mandelate, which can be formulated to enhance its stability and skin compatibility.

Benefits: Mandelic acid is known for its large molecular size, making it less irritating and more suitable for sensitive skin types. It accelerates cell turnover, helps clear pores, reduces the appearance of fine lines, and fades pigmentation. Its antibacterial properties also make it beneficial for acne-prone skin.

Non-Toxic Exfoliators That Use Mandelic Acid:

• Dime Beauty TBT Serum

• Natural Outcome Mandelic Acid Serum

• Vivant Mandelic Acid 3-in-1 Exfoliating Cleanser

• Face Food - Raw Honey Almond Exfoliant

Citric Acid

Derivatives: Citric acid salts (citrates), such as sodium citrate and potassium citrate, act as pH adjusters and buffering agents in skincare, enhancing the stability of the formula.

Benefits: Citric acid, an AHA found in citrus fruits, acts as an antioxidant and adjusts the pH of skincare products to prevent skin irritation. It promotes skin peeling and regeneration, helping to brighten and smooth the skin's surface.

Non-Toxic Exfoliators That Use Citric Acid:

• Good Medicine ASHES Reincarnation Cleansing Grains

• Just the Goods Lightly Foaming Vegan Face Wash For Normal / Sensitive Skin

• Conscious Skincare Fragrance Free Body Wash

Tartaric Acid

Derivatives: Tartaric acid esters, like dihydroxyethyl terephthalate, are used to improve the texture and feel of skincare formulations.

Benefits: Derived from grapes, tartaric acid helps to maintain the skin's pH balance and supports skin’s natural keratinization process. It works alongside other AHAs to enhance their efficacy without increasing skin sensitivity, making it a valuable addition to exfoliating products.

Non-Toxic Exfoliators That Use Tartaric Acid

• Shaklee Reveal Body Exfoliant

• Cocokind AHA Jelly Cleanser

Azelaic Acid

Derivatives: Azelaic acid is typically used in its pure form but can be formulated with silicates and other stabilizers to enhance its application and effectiveness.

Benefits: While not an AHA or BHA, azelaic acid is celebrated for its ability to reduce inflammation, making it effective against acne and rosacea. It also inhibits melanin production, addressing hyperpigmentation and evening out skin tone.

Non-Toxic Exfoliators That Use Azelaic Acid

• True Botanicals Calm Ginger Turmeric Cleansing Balm

• Jan Marini Skin Research Multi-Acting Resurfacing Pads

• Kara MD Enzymatic Exfoliant

Willow Bark Extract

Derivatives: The most notable derivative of willow bark extract is salicin, which can be converted into salicylic acid on the skin.

Benefits: Willow bark extract gently exfoliates the skin, offering anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties that are beneficial for soothing acne-prone skin and promoting a smooth, clear complexion.

Non-Toxic Exfoliators That Use Willow Bark Extract:

• Vermont Skincare Company Toner 5

• Bella Botanicals Witch Hazel and Lavender Hydrosol Facial Toner

• Well People Plant Powderfoliant Renewing Charcoal Exfoliating Powder

Papain

Derivatives: Papain can be combined with other compounds to form stabilized enzyme complexes for enhanced skin benefits.

Benefits: Extracted from papaya, papain is an enzyme that dissolves proteins, facilitating the removal of dead skin cells to reveal brighter, smoother skin underneath. It's known for its mild exfoliating properties suitable for sensitive skin.

Non-Toxic Exfoliators That Use Papain or Papaya Extract:

• Three Ships Beauty Refresh Papaya + Salicylic Acid Cleanser

• JackFir The Classic Daily Facial Cleanser

• True Botanicals Microbiome Enzyme Essence

• Akar Skin Clarify Face Oil

Bromelain

Derivatives: Like papain, bromelain may be incorporated into complexes with other ingredients to boost its stability and efficacy.

Benefits: Sourced from pineapples, bromelain is an enzyme that breaks down protein on the skin's surface, aiding in the exfoliation process. It reduces inflammation and can help improve skin texture and tone.

Non-Toxic Exfoliators That Use Bromelain:

• Naturium The Brightener Vitamin C Body Wash, Gentle Cleanser

• Amber Budd Exfoliate // Polish - Skin Exfoliant Scrub for all Skin Types

Pumpkin Enzyme (Cucurbita Pepo)

Derivatives: Pumpkin enzymes are often used in their natural form but can be combined with preservatives to extend shelf life.

Benefits: Pumpkin enzyme is a natural exfoliant that helps dissolve dead skin cells without mechanical scrubbing, making it gentle on the skin. It contains antioxidants, vitamins A and C, and can help brighten the skin and stimulate collagen production for a youthful appearance.

Non-Toxic Exfoliators That Use Pumpkin Enzyme (Cucurbita Pepo):

• Green Beauty Pumpkin Enzyme Face Mask

• DRMTLGY Pumpkin Enzyme Mask

• Mad Hippie MicroDermabrasion Facial

Conclusion & Disclaimer

Each of these ingredients and their derivatives plays a crucial role in exfoliating products, offering a range of benefits from gentle exfoliation and brightening to anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial actions.

By understanding the unique properties of each, skincare formulators can create products tailored to various skin needs and concerns, and you can make educated decisions about why you choose your skincare products.

FTC Disclaimer: This blog post may contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of those product links and make a purchase, I’ll receive a commission, at no additional cost to you. This helps support the blog and allows me to continue to make content. I only recommend products that I trust, to the best of my ability, to be non-toxic. This blog post is for informational purposes only and does not constitute professional advice. Always read product labels and use as directed. Manufacturers reserve the right at any time to change product ingredients. Thank you for your support!