Polysorbates in Skincare: What They Are, Why They’re Used, and the Toxicity Debate

If you’re committed to low-tox living and ingredient transparency, you’ve probably seen polysorbate 20, polysorbate 60, or polysorbate 80 on the ingredient lists of skincare, makeup, and even haircare products. But what are these chemicals, why are they so common, and—most importantly—should you avoid them if you’re striving for a nontoxic routine? This comprehensive guide will break down the science, the controversy, and the practical steps for a cleaner beauty regimen.

What Are Polysorbates?

Polysorbates are a family of synthetic emulsifiers and surfactants. Their main job in cosmetics and personal care products is to blend oil and water, creating stable, smooth lotions, creams, serums, and sprays. They also help dissolve fragrances and essential oils into water-based formulas, prevent product separation, and improve texture and shelf life.

The Different Types: Polysorbate 20, 40, 60, and 80

Each polysorbate is identified by a number, which refers to the type of fatty acid attached to the molecule:

Polysorbate	Fatty Acid Source	Typical Use Cases
20	Lauric acid	Facial mists, toners, light lotions
40	Palmitic acid	Food, pharmaceuticals
60	Stearic acid	Thick creams, body butters
80	Oleic acid	Deep conditioners, oil cleansers, heavy creams

Polysorbate 80 is the most widely used in both food and cosmetics, but all four are found across a huge range of personal care products.

Why Are Polysorbates Used in Skincare and Makeup?

• Emulsification: They keep oil and water together, preventing separation in creams, lotions, and serums.

• Solubilization: They help essential oils, fragrances, and actives dissolve in water-based formulas.

• Stabilization: They improve shelf life and maintain product consistency.

• Texture Enhancement: They give products a smooth, appealing feel.

You’ll find polysorbates in moisturizers, cleansers, toners, sunscreens, makeup removers, mascaras, shampoos, conditioners, and even baby products.

Are Polysorbates Toxic? The Science and the Controversy

Regulatory Perspective

• FDA: Polysorbates are permitted as food additives and indirect food substances. However, the FDA does not specifically approve cosmetic ingredients, so safety oversight for skincare use is less direct.

• Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR): The CIR panel (funded by the Personal Care Products Council) has found polysorbates to be safe for use in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating.

• European Union: Approved for use in cosmetics and personal care at regulated concentrations.

The Main Concerns

1. 1,4-Dioxane Contamination

• How it happens: Polysorbates are made by reacting sorbitol with ethylene oxide, a process called ethoxylation. This can create 1,4-dioxane as a byproduct.

• Why it matters: 1,4-dioxane is a probable human carcinogen (cancer-causing agent) according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA).

• Skin penetration: Studies show 1,4-dioxane penetrates human skin easily, especially when pores are open (e.g., during a hot shower).

• Cumulative exposure: Most people use multiple products daily, leading to chronic low-level exposure. The Organic Consumers Association found 1,4-dioxane in many “natural” and conventional personal care products, sometimes at levels 1,000 times higher than those shown to cause cancer in animal studies.

2. Skin Irritation and Allergic Reactions

• Most people tolerate polysorbates, but some—especially those with sensitive skin—may experience irritation, breakouts, or allergic reactions.

• Animal studies have shown moderate to strong skin sensitization to polysorbate 20 in some cases, and rare but real hypersensitivity reactions have been documented in humans.

• Polysorbate 20 is generally more irritating than polysorbate 80, especially at higher concentrations.

  
  

3. Developmental and Reproductive Toxicity (Animal Studies)

• High doses of polysorbate 20 have been linked to developmental and reproductive toxicity in animal studies, though these doses are much higher than typical human exposure.

• The concern is less about acute toxicity and more about the unknowns of long-term, cumulative, low-dose exposure—especially in children and pregnant women.

  
  

4. Hormonal Disruption and Systemic Effects

• Some studies suggest polysorbates may disrupt hormones, potentially leading to reproductive issues or hormone imbalances, though evidence in humans is limited and more research is needed.

• In rare cases, polysorbate-containing intravenous medications have caused severe reactions in premature infants, likely due to their inability to metabolize the compounds.

  
  

5. Environmental Impact

• Polysorbates are often derived from petrochemicals, contributing to pollution when washed down the drain.

• Their breakdown products can be persistent in the environment.

  
  

The “Low Tox” Perspective: Why Avoid Polysorbates?

If your goal is to reduce your exposure to potentially harmful chemicals and minimize your toxic load, here’s why you might choose to avoid polysorbates in your beauty and personal care products:

• Potential for carcinogenic contamination: The risk of 1,4-dioxane exposure, even at low levels, is a red flag for anyone focused on nontoxic living.

• Cumulative exposure risk: The average person uses 10+ personal care products daily. Even if each contains a “safe” amount, the total exposure can add up, especially for children and those with compromised skin barriers.

• Skin barrier disruption: Polysorbates can increase skin permeability, potentially allowing other unwanted chemicals to penetrate more deeply.

• Sensitive skin and allergies: If you have sensitive, allergy-prone, or reactive skin, polysorbates may trigger irritation or allergic responses.

• Ethoxylation process: The production of polysorbates involves ethylene oxide, a known carcinogen, and contributes to the overall chemical load in the environment and your body.

• Environmental sustainability: Petrochemical-derived ingredients are not sustainable and contribute to environmental pollution.

What Does the Research Say? Key Scientific Findings

• Polysorbate 20 is more cytotoxic than polysorbate 80 in lung cell studies, with both showing toxicity at higher concentrations: https://clinmedjournals.org/articles/ijtra/international-journal-of-toxicology-and-risk-assessment-ijtra-5-022.php?jid=ijtra

• Animal studies show developmental and reproductive toxicity at high doses, but human data is limited: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17961976/

• Clinical studies generally find low skin irritation potential, but rare allergic reactions and sensitization are possible: https://www.aaaai.org/allergist-resources/ask-the-expert/answers/old-ask-the-experts/polysorbate

• 1,4-dioxane, a contaminant in ethoxylated ingredients like polysorbates, is a probable carcinogen and readily absorbed through the skin: https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/potential-contaminants-cosmetics/14-dioxane-cosmetics-manufacturing-byproduct

How to Spot and Avoid Polysorbates in Your Products

Look for these names on ingredient labels:

• Polysorbate 20 (polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate)

• Polysorbate 40 (polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monopalmitate)

• Polysorbate 60 (polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monostearate)

• Polysorbate 80 (polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monooleate)

Common products containing polysorbates:

• Moisturizers

• Creams and lotions

• Makeup removers

• Sunscreens

• Hair conditioners and shampoos

• Baby wipes and baby lotions

• Bath oils and bubble baths

Tips for a Low-Tox Routine:

• Read labels carefully—especially on “natural” or “gentle” products, as polysorbates are common even in these categories.

• Choose certified organic or “non-toxic” brands that explicitly avoid ethoxylated ingredients.

• Look for brands that test for and remove 1,4-dioxane residues (though this is not always disclosed).

• Opt for products using natural emulsifiers like lecithin, beeswax, cetearyl alcohol, or plant-based gums.

Conclusion: Should You Avoid Polysorbates in Skincare?

Polysorbates are effective, widely used emulsifiers in cosmetics, but their presence raises valid concerns for those seeking a nontoxic lifestyle. The risk of 1,4-dioxane contamination, potential skin irritation, and the unknowns of cumulative exposure—especially for sensitive individuals and children—make them ingredients worth avoiding if you’re committed to low-tox living.

Takeaway: While regulatory agencies consider polysorbates safe at low concentrations, the lack of long-term data and the real risk of contamination with known carcinogens like 1,4-dioxane support a precautionary approach. Read labels, choose organic and low-tox brands, and opt for products with natural emulsifiers whenever possible.

Your skin is your largest organ—what you put on it matters. For a truly nontoxic skincare routine, avoiding polysorbates is a smart, science-backed choice.

Ready to detox your dome? Explore our curated collection of polysorbate-free, low-tox skincare and makeup for a cleaner, safer beauty routine.

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